The sun shone brightly, from blue skies, as the town of Sandwich, in Kent, proudly hosted 'Cinque Ports Speaker's Day' An annual event led by one of the Mayors of a 'Head Port' or 'Ancient Town' within the Confederation of the Cinque Ports. Let's discover what lies behind this tradition, these towns, and their place in history. Along the coast of South East England, in the counties of Kent and East Sussex, is a group of 7 towns, who have a story to tell which goes back around 1000 years. Today, they are mostly small historic towns, or seaside resorts, with only one, Dover, still boasting an important harbour, but, before the advent of the Royal Navy, it was these, once powerful prosperous, ports which provided the men and ships in the service of the monarch, guarding this vulnerable, frequently attacked, stretch of England's coastline.
The towns are Dover, Sandwich, Hythe, Romney (now New Romney) and Hastings. These original 5 Head Ports gave the name to the Cinque Ports but as we are to be reminded, this must be pronounced 'sink' not 'sank' or, like our former enemies, we stand to be 'sunk' ! Long before King Edward 1's charter of 1278, which gave formal establishment to the Confederation, the 5 original Head Ports, together with the 2 Ancient Towns of Rye and Winchelsea, were busy trading and fishing centres, whose fleets were used in the service of the monarch, to defend the coast, and engage in sea battles. By the 13th century, we know that the Ports were providing a 'Ship Service' of 57 ships, fully manned, with a crew of 21 men (and a boy)! for 15 days of the year, in exchange for all sorts of rights and privileges. -If the King needed them for more days, then he had to pay. As we can imagine, in Medieval times, particularly during the 100 years war, there was a very real need for such service, and so the Portsmen were kept busy for most of the year. As a result, they grew very wealthy and powerful. Their privileges gave them freedom from paying taxes, fishing rights, the right to hold their own courts, and keep the money they collected from the fines. Amongst the many strange sounding names, perhaps the rights of 'infangthief' and 'outfangthief' (the authority to imprison to exectute thieves or other felons) sound strangest of all ! They also had 'honours at court' The men, all of whom, were, then, entitled to be called 'Barons' were even given the right to carry a canopy over the monarch during the Coronation's ceremonial procession. I believe this right ended after 1821, when there appears to have been some rather unruly behaviour during the Coronation of King George IV resulting in a torn canopy! Today, although the title of Baron is simply a ceremonial one, there were 14 'Barons' or representatives, mainly Mayors, attending the Coronation of His Majesty King Charles III and Her Majesty the Queen at their Coronation in May 2023.
At the peak of their power in the 13th and 14th centuries, the Head Ports needed extra help, and eventually 'limbs' were added to the Head Ports to assist in this important role. Over the centuries, there were more than 30 towns and villages which were recognised as part of this Confederation. The area was rich in ship-building, using oak, from the Weald of Kent (part of Andredesweald, a vast forest which stretched from the Kentish marshes to the New Forest in Hampshire) The Weald, also a source of iron-ore, gave rise to the production of weaponry too, including cannons and cannonballs which would go on to be used in the Navies of King Henry Vlll and Queen Elizabeth l. Hard to imagine today, where silting and powerful storms have changed the shape of our coastline, closing the ports, and the ship building/iron industries are just a memory- but these were fierce, brave, often lawless men who pretty much ruled the area for centuries. Often turning to piracy and smuggling, or even wrecking! However, let's not forget their more heroic role in safeguarding our shores long before England possessed a Royal Navy.
Today, there are just 14 towns within the Confederation of the Cinque Ports. The seven original ports, and 7 limbs, and although the role is purely ceremonial, the memories and the rich heritage remain. The role of speaker goes in turn to one of the Mayors of the Head Ports, changing over in May each year. 2024 is the turn of Sandwich, which is why the town proudly hosted the 'Speaker's Day' on the first weekend of October.
Indeed a proud and celebratory year for the Cinque Ports, as, the King has approved the appointment of Admiral Sir George Zambellas GCB,DSC,ADC,DL as the new Lord Warden and Admiral of the Cinque Ports in succession to Lord Boyce. The official Installation Ceremony is due to take place at an event in Dover at the end of October.
Walmer Castle, in Kent, became the official residence of the Lord Warden in the 18th Century, and will be welcoming Admiral Sir George Zambellas to his new official home. A distinguished list of former Lord Wardens includes Sir Winston Churchill, William Pitt the Younger, The Duke of Wellington, and Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother.
No doubt, at the Installation, we shall, again, enjoy the rich pageantry associated with this Institution, and I hope the sun shines as brightly as it did on Speaker's Day in Sandwich.
Creativity Travel offers customised and exclusive guided tours of the Cinque Ports (East) from 1 - 25 persons with transportation, walking tour of Sandwich, admission to Walmer Castle and plenty of photo opportunities from as little as £47 per person
