Watching StormErik pounding my garden reminded me of stories of a February day in 1287 when The Great Storm hit the coastline from Kent to East Sussex with such force that whole areas of coastline were changed for ever. Important ports that made their living from their vicinity to the sea found their harbours blocked by silt and shingle and even parts of the cliff, complete with fortifications.
Standing secure on its hill, modern Winchelsea is the second settlement to bear the name. Old Winchelsea lay somewhere in what is now Rye Bay and has long since been lost. It was originally called Gwent-chesel-ey, or the Shingle Isle on the Level – a clear reference to the vulnerability of its position.
The once thriving port was completely destroyed in the storm to be rebuilt in around 1292, a few miles inland, in the grid system (then typically used in Aquitaine) on the orders of King Edward 1.
Why would the King himself be so interested in the fate of these small towns/ports ? – Well before King Henry V111 established the beginnings of a Royal Navy, it fell to just 5 towns along the south coast to work in the service of the King, for short periods of time each year, in exchange for freedom from paying taxes, and other privileges. If they were needed for longer (which they usually were) a handsome fee would be paid. These towns were Dover, Sandwich, Hythe, Romney and Hastings. They were assisted by the two ‘Antient Towns’ of Rye and Winchelsea. The King recognised their strategic importance in the defence of his realm and in facilitating trade across ‘The Narrow Sea’, as the English Channel was described.
Probably the most dramatic change due to this storm was wrought to the two towns of New Romney and Rye. New Romney had been an important port, with the wide and deep flowing River Rother passing through it into the English Channel. The storm was so severe that it served to completely silt up New Romney’s harbour and change the course of the River Rother bringing it to the town of Rye. So within just a few hours, New Romney found itself to be landlocked and a good mile from the sea, whilst Rye awoke to find itself with a brand-new River and a harbour!
It must have been terrifying, firstly having to deal with saving lives, and ships and property, but in the calm of the following days those villagers knew that they would have much work ahead in order to re-invent themselves or find a way of carrying on. However, history shows us that they survived and the Cinque Ports carried on with their important role until well into the 16th century. Indeed, throughout Kent and East Sussex evidence of our past heritage survives today with due ceremony and pageantry, and town signs will still proudly tell you that this is a Cinque Port. Over the years the fickle sea has silted up, and land has been reclaimed. Both Rye and Sandwich, once important ports, now lie some 2-3 miles inland from the sea. So, the sea which made these towns important ports, centuries later turned them into quiet backwaters. Difficult to imagine that Sandwich (below) was once the gateway to England before Dover took that title.
Creativity Travel offers two guided tours which tell the tales of the Cinque Ports and the many fascinating and colourful folk who lived in them or visited here. Mariners, Merchants, Fighting Men, Monarchs and Lords, even smugglers and a pirate! We see coast and countryside, rural villages and picturesque small towns. Cinque Ports East is a circular tour around East Kent, possibly starting in Dover, but including Sandwich and Walmer Castle (official residence of the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports) Cinque Ports West takes us from Dover (other starting points available) through Hythe and across the Marsh to visit Rye and Winchelsea. Plenty of photo opportunities, walks and talks and plenty of country inns for lunch or perhaps an afternoon tea. See the very best of Kent and Sussex with Creativity Travel. Yvonne@Creativitytravel.co.uk for reservations and quotations for exclusive tailor-made tours from the Port of Dover
Yvonne Leach and her colleagues are all professional Blue Badge Tourist Guides who are fully conversant with, and qualified to guide throughout Kent, Sussex and Surrey.
